martes, diciembre 26, 2006

Cosmic Girl - Jamiroquai


The cosmic thing started here

De Wikipedia:

"En el videoclip de esta canción se caracteriza por comenzar en el amanecer en el cabo de gata, donde la banda espera a un Ferrari f355 negro pasar frente a ellos, que en sendos Lamborghni Diablo se30 y Ferrari f40 lo siguen a maxima velocidad a través de las curvas que dibuja la ruta. Un dato interesante es que existen 3 versiones diferentes del videclip, cada una con angulos diferentes de la misma acción."

Cosmic Girl, Jamiroquai
Album - Travelling Without Moving
Lanzamiento - Agosto 1996
Grabaga - 1996
Género - Acid Jazz
Duración -
4:03
Escritor: Jay Kay

jueves, diciembre 21, 2006

Cosmic Dancing

jueves, diciembre 07, 2006

Integra Fashion Day

Integra Fashion Day - My graduation runway show

go to www.fotolog.com/integra_fashion for a preview of all the collections that will the showcased that day

Preview of Cosmic Dancers

Stefania, a Cosmic Dancer

Coleccion: "Cosmic Dancers" por Monica Zanocchi / fotografia: Cristhian Rodriguez / retoque digital: Flavio Giusti - piso8.com / modelo: Stefania Tortorella / Montevideo Models / maquillaje y peinados: Daniel Ortega para Fabian Sciutto / calzado: Melissa en Paulina Gross

Cosmic Dancers is the name of the collection I will be showcasing on Dec. 14th, 2006, in Montevideo, Uruguay. My thesis is clothing with total freedom of movement to go to a dance class, a special party, uber fashionable event, etc.

Tomorrow I will be videotaping my first dance video, will update later on all of this.

martes, noviembre 21, 2006

Start: My "Lookbook"

Colección Cosmic Dancers
Lookbook escrito

Look 1 Vestido Sexy Godet
Grupo 1 No. 1
Vestido, Sexy, Godet adentro de Godet - Misma parte de arriba de vestido en Look 2 + pollera plato + godets.
Colores: Verde Floresta (vivo Azul Cielo) + pollera verde floresta, azul cielo y tri-estampada + Medias azul cielo con vivo de estampa verde ácida.

Look 2 Vestido Sexy con Petalos
Grupo 2 No. 1
Vestido, Sexy con Pollera Petalos
Colores: Estampado verde acqua (vivo púrpura) + calza simples, color: púrpura

Look 3 Body + pollera petalos
Grupo 3 No. 1
Body, cortes en espiral - Colores: Verde Acqua (vivo Verde Floresta)
+ pollera petalos, Jogging gris

Look 4 Vestido Sexy Denim
Grupo 4 No. 1
Vestido, Sexy Glamour Demin

Look 5 Pollera Godet con Chaquetita Denim
Grupo 1 No. 2
Pollera Godet, tri estampa
Colores: tri-estampa y azul turquesa
+ Calza Simples, Coral oscuro
+ Top cruzado de manga larga (largo largo)
+ Chaquetita Glamour Denim

Look 6 Bikini con Chaquetita de jogging
Grupo 2 No. 2
Bikini, "Vintage"
Colores: estampa coral (vivo: azul turquesa)
+ Chaquetita Jogging Gris

Look 7 Sobretudo con Collant
Grupo 3 No. 2
Sobretudo "años 20", jogging gris
+ Sexy Collant, Coral oscuro (vivo: naranjo)

Look 8 Macaquinho
Grupo 4 No. 2
Macaquinho de jogging gris + Tank de jogging gris?
Color: All Grey?

Look 9 Remerita Godet, Calza Spiral
Grupo 1 No. 3
Remerita Godet, Manga Kimono, Lycra Tri-estampas
+ Body, Spiral
Colores: Azul Turquesa, Azul Cielo y Verde Acqua

Look 10 Calza Denim con body estampado
Grupo 2 No. 3
Look gatinha
Calza Glamour Denim, cintura altisima
+ Body Haulter, espalda nadadora, Estampado
Colores: Estampado verde acido (vivo: fucsia)

Look 11 Body liso con topsito de jogging
Grupo 3 No. 3
Modelo:
Telefono:
Body, Manga Larga, escote profundo
Color - predominante: púrpura, accento: amarelo esverdeado cítrico
+ Camperita oversized con puño, jogging gris

Look 12 Body multi color
Grupo 4 No. 3
Body, Multi color, cruzado, manga larga, cortes en espiral

domingo, octubre 29, 2006

Dreaming of Sustainable Dance Floors

Simply a beautiful and "full of hope" business idea. Imagine what a beautiful thing: Inteligently recicle the energy we release while dancing... That's a world I want to experience.

photo and full article found here

"Enviu, an environmental NGO for young people, is working together with architectural firm Döll to create a truly sustainable nightclub. The club they envision will feature energy-generating dance floors (excellent way to extract kilowatts from energetic clubbers), toilets that flush with rain water, walls that change colour as a reaction to temperature changes, a rooftop garden and other elements that combine to create a sustainable clubbing environment.

Working with the Technical University of Delft and the Development Board of Rotterdam, Enviu and Döll aim to build a club that will be fun and profitable, yet will have a low impact on the environment, while raising awareness for social and environmental issues." (www.springwise.com)

lunes, octubre 16, 2006

Updates

Hello! I haven't updated my blog in 10 days and if I start to write all the things that I'm thinking about right now I would be doing it forever. Unfortunately I don't have much time this moment.

Anyway, a quick update would be: I spent all of last week in São Paulo, buying the fabrics for my end of year show. It was a life changing experience... I even visited heaven!! Yes, heaven. My super friend Fabiana (thanks again!!) took me to a lycra (yes LYCRA not liquor) store and I haven't been the same since. You have NO idea of the lycra you can get in Brazil... damn… I remember being totally in awe... I actually couldn't think in there, it was overwhelming (yes, lycra is that important to me). And well, I went from heaven to hell when I had to decide which lycra to take. Oh my god, that was VERY stressful... I swear I couldn't think, seriously, there was too much to choose from... I'm starting to realize maybe I didn't buy the right type of lycra, I should have gotten other different textures, but well, I'll have to improvise (that's what I do best anyway). And here I am, back to Uruguay, with some colorful lycra and my life changed...

I have already started to improvise and produce the collection. In a few days we will be taking pictures of one look for a small magazine we will be printing to spread out the word about the runway show. We hope it will be packed with people. Once I have the pic, I'll see (yes, I’m not guaranteeing) if I post it here.

Also, I haven’t talked much about my boyfriend Gaston (merchant marine), but he is finally coming back soon! We haven’t seen each other for the past 6 months! He is somewhere in Africa and could be coming anytime now… We will only speak if he has the opportunity to call from the airport. I’m thinking he is probably going to surprise us... but really, I don’t know what to think anymore, I’m just getting really impatient, so if you talk to me in the wrong moment I may yell at you. Sorry.

Also, my brother is coming this week with my BEAUTIFUL nephew and sister in law. Obba!!

And in mid November I will be in Miami for John’s and Paula’s really important wedding with Gaston(cito)… My amazing friend Louise (from Fortaleza currently living in Texas with her husband, Ryan) is coming to see my other amazing friend Cecília (from Fortaleza, currently studying in Miami) and I. And I will be seeing all my beautiful Miami friends! AND I’m going to the beach!!!

So there are a lot of important things happening at once, it’s all really intense.

I’m ready to jump! Are you ready to jump?

Oh, one more thing, I bought the new Justin Timberlake cd in São Paulo, and I have to say: he is HOT! Well, I really want to put his "My Love" video here, take a look, it deserves your time, the dancing is AMAZING! If you want, just fast-forward the long 1:42 minute intro... then the song really starts and maybe you'll understand me.



Muah!

viernes, octubre 06, 2006

(Free) Pattern by Yohji Yamamoto


"Now you have the original pattern of a certain garment. It is hard to see what it is just looking at it. The fabric should be some kind of wool... Then, you have the photo that tells you a little bit more. Take a close look at the symbols that are inscribed on the pattern. They are important leads to construct the garment. Now, spread your imagination and good luck!" (Yohji Yamamoto, May 2002)

Acclaimed designer Yohji Yamamoto provides an enigmatic pattern for viewers to download and make up into an exclusive, mystery garment.

Go here to download full Yohji Yamamoto Pattern

jueves, octubre 05, 2006

psychoPEDIA

Indie Culture Network
Music, Film, Fashion, Arts, Toys & Madness
Go here

Check it out, it's interesting... It's like youtube but without all the crap.

miércoles, octubre 04, 2006

Madonna - Jump

I'm really feeling conected to this song right now.


Please note that I go through moments and keep constantly changing... So what I'm feeling today or in this moment in my life, is not necesarily what I will feel in a few months... I'm costantly changing (like many things in the universe), moving and living life as if everyday is a special day, every moment is a special moment...

JUMP

[Written by Madonna, Joe Henry and Stuart Price]

There’s only so much you can learn in one place
The more that I wait, the more time that I waste

I haven’t got much time to waste, it’s time to make my way
I’m not afraid of what I’ll face, but I’m afraid to stay
I’m going down my own road and I can make it alone
I'll work and I'll fight, Till I find a place of my own

Are you ready to jump?
Get ready to jump
Don’t ever look back, oh baby,
Yes, I’m ready to jump
Just take my hands
Get ready to jump

We learned our lesson from the start, my sisters and me
The only thing you can depend on is your family
And life’s gonna drop you down like the limbs of a tree
It sways and it swings and it bends until it makes you see

Are you ready to jump?
Get ready to jump
Don’t ever look back, oh baby
Yes, I’m ready to jump
Just take my hands
Get ready to, are you ready?

(Spoken:)
There’s only so much you can learn in one place
The more that you wait, the more time that you waste

I'll work and I'll fight till I find a place of my own
It sways and it swings and it bends until you make it your own

I can make it alone(my sisters and me) (repeat 7x)

Are you ready to jump?
Get ready to jump
Don’t ever look back, oh baby
Yes, I’m ready to jump
Just take my hands
Get ready to jump

Are you ready to jump?
Get ready to jump
Don’t ever look back, oh baby
Yes, I’m ready to jump
Just take my hands
Get ready to, are you ready?

martes, octubre 03, 2006

Viktor & Rolf

Viktor & Rolf are in the search (of how we'll dress in the future) and deserve close attention...

Dance is everywhere...





That's a real model: Raquel Zimmermann

Viktor & Rolf
Spring Summer 2007

sábado, setiembre 30, 2006

Three Legged Chair

"3 is complete balance. Think about how if theres 3 legs on a chair it wont wobble, but if you have 4 it will." (John Fathom)

Embryo Chair, three-leg chair
Designed by Marc Newson
red dot award: product design 1999



Three Legged Shell Chair
Designed by Hans J Wegner


Irina Lazareanu

Model Irina Lazareanu, in Balenciaga.

jueves, setiembre 28, 2006

An email to my real friends...

I don't want to feel limited, I need to feel liberated.

I desperately need a place where I have enough space for dancing and designing... A place I can do whatever I want whenever I want. The idea is to find a large old house and open a design and dance studio, something very “doable” in Uruguay. I hope to do it together with my love. I want to work freelance for companies and other than that, work on my own designs and other projects such as fashion productions, blogs (I’m really serious about this), and practice/share my dancing...

I have a project where I want to video tape my improvisation sessions and put them online in a blog or webpage… I want to add new material either daily, weekly or whenever I feel like (but first I need space). I've been talking to my NY dance friends and we are going to work together... So we are probably going to start a virtual dancing community soon... We'll use the Internet to share our art no matter the distance.

Back on July 8th of this year, 2006, I had the idea and wrote it to Cathy and Jelena, NY dance friends:

From: Monica / To: Cathy and Jelena / Date: Jul 8, 2006 1:41 AM / Subject: I had an idea!
“I had an idea! What about starting a website where people can upload and (maybe) download dance videos... exactly like youtube, but dance only. Maybe there is already something like that, but we could start a dance blog where people can put on the internet, their home made or professional videos of dance experimentation, which could be anything: Monica dancing in her living room, Cathy and Abi performing at the DUMBO festival, Jelena dancing and singing in a musical comedy, Mark taking a Cunningham dance class, a video dance by Hiske, maybe a performance by MCDC etc, etc, etc. That way we could exchange art very easily. Maybe we could also do a section on dance photography (what's more beautiful than photos taken of people moving, dancing?)...”

To start my virtual video dancing career (I have decided I will be a professional dancer my way) I have started talks with my cousin Maria who will be producing and directing my first video... which will be the background in my graduation runway show. So, in the show I will not only be kick starting my fashion career, I will also start my video dancing career. I have to say my dancing is getting even better (thank God!)... The Cunningham technique is still in my body and I'm surprised with the evolution of my movement... Cunningham was the best thing that could have happened to my dancing, so it will be around for a long time in my life and I'm trying to figure out when can I go take more classes...

For clothes the ideas are:
Perfect for dancing/moving and having fun. Freedom of movement. Body consciousness. Strong Personality. Adaptable. Practical. Artistic. Original. Sexy. Smart. I want lycra to be my prime material. I want the fabric to “hold you tight and show you off,” so you don’t have to worry about anything, you don’t need to wear a bra for example… The fabric naturally molds your body, it hides imperfections, it makes you feel beautiful, comfortable and confident. In the future I want to work with intelligent fabrics. Dancewear (for class and practicing sports) is one of the lines I'm starting this year. And of course dance costumes are in my future plans also.

So for now the idea (so many ideas) is that at least for next year I will be here still... There is still "juice" I can take out of Uruguay... Uruguay has its positives although is nothing compared to NY. I'm in a small town here!! But it's given me lots of things... Including the career that will pay my rent. I love fashion and Uruguay gave me that...

So in 2007 I will (all of this is subject to change):
-Continue working for ASICS, which is a great experience... I want to stay at least till the end of next year because by then I will have done three shoe collections and 2 apparel collections, and there is lots to learn from that!
-I also still need another year of serious drawing, sowing and pattern making studies... There is still a lot I need to learn, (but for that I need the space and time for personal experimentation, which I don't have in this moment). I need to be 100% independent and I'm not in the moment... I still need help with my patterns and definitely need guidance sowing.
-Kick start my careers in design, virtual dancing and blogging.

Then after all that I think I will be ready to go back to NY? (at least to stay for a few months and take some Cunningham classes) Maybe I'll go to São Paulo? Stay in Uruguay? Who knows what the future holds! Lets see… Please send me your positive energy.

What about you? What are your ideas? Muuuah!

Monqui / Moni / Moniquinha / Moniquita / Monquichi / Monica

lunes, setiembre 25, 2006

1+1 = 3

I haven't asked John for his official permission to put part of his email in my blog, but that doens't matter, I'm sure he will be alright

Here it is: John explaining with his own words, the 3 theory. (It's really exciting by the way)

"now on to 1+1= 3 theory. To fully implement 3 theory into design here are some interesting facts to help. 3 is complete balance. think about how if theres 3 legs on a chair it wont wobble, but if you have 4 it will. Think how many primary colors there are, think holy trinity, think molecular structure. Think about my Frizzball toy. 3 balls connected at a center point, when thrown thru the air you have complete balance by centrifugal force. Then go back to 1+1=3 theory. You can actually google this and other people are writing 1+1=3 in other things. 1+1 is 3 simply theorizes that when you add one complete component to another completely different component you dont get two components like 1+1=2, you get a third. Think if you take pure black and pure white and mix them you get a new color. Grey, a 3rd new element. Consider this when you design, consider balance of three ofcourse as well. 3 is also Pi. # has all the answrs you need, which might also be why you work in multiples of 3. Enough said on that."

Thanks John!

PS: Johnsito by the way is an almost famous paintor (soon I will be showcasing his art)! :) He is one of the most talented people I've met and his soon to be wife, Paulita, is one of the most connected people I have ever met... Together we make a perfect 1+1 = 3. I don't know what I was of them in another life, but definitely something because I really really connect with them.

Yes, I do believe in past lives.

And everything in life has a reason... (this is confirmed in my life almost everyday - oba!)

Scissors Sisters

I've been thinking of what's in the air right now, then I remembered I had seen a video from the Scissor Sisters.

I should have been more curious about them way back, but I am a little disconnected with the new "trends" in music right now (which is bad and something I must work on). The problem is that I don't have MTV like I did when I was 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 years old even... I knew everything there was about music back then, MTV and my brother taught me about it...

But those were other times, we are getting old!! :)

Anyway, Scissor Sisters... If you pay attention, they are really, really amazing. It's sort of daring and surprising, but it makes sense... It's really appropriate for the moment.

I was in between the two videos and decided to put both. Both are very good!



Comfortably Numb


I don't feel like dancing

Depeche Mode - Never Let Me Down Again



I've been reading about New Wave in wikipedia - great source!! There is even a page with a list of the most important new wave songs... Then you go straight to youtube and watch the classics (but you've got to do it quick, because there isn't enough time to do everything in one day).

New wave is in the air right now. I have a friend in school who is totally new wave.

jueves, setiembre 21, 2006

La arquitectura de moda - Excelente texto de Flylosophy!


La relación entre la arquitectura más reciente y la moda, y la influencia de los arquitectos "superstar" en la evolución de nuestras ciudades, son algunas de las ideas que el arquitecto Jaime Sarmiento analiza para Flylosophy

En marzo de 2006, la revista EPS (suplemento dominical del diario El País), publicó el artículo "Los edificios son maniquíes" en el que se relacionaba la moda con la arquitectura. En este artículo se mencionaba a un grupo de jóvenes arquitectos que intentan “trasladar el mundo de seis diseñadores de moda españoles a la arquitectura y el interiorismo”. Este concepto fue llamado Arkimoda.

Al mes siguiente, en las páginas de opinión de la misma revista, un indignado arquitecto criticaba el reportaje: “Para presentar este engendro, bautizado como arkimoda, es imprescindible una apariencia de modernidad y estética vanguardista”. La crítica al artículo no sólo se debía a la frivolidad con que se entretejían ambas disciplinas, sino también a la repercusión que podría tener en el público general y al detrimento de la profesión del arquitecto.

Al margen de esta polémica, el atrevido empeño de estos jóvenes de transferir la moda a la arquitectura no hace más que confirmar algo que, desde hace algunos años, viene sucediendo: la arquitectura más reciente es una cuestión de modas.

La moda es, por naturaleza, un asunto pasajero; cambia cada temporada. La arquitectura reciente, al igual que ella, se diluye con el tiempo. Es evanescente. ¿Quién se acuerda ahora de los edificios de las últimas olimpiadas? ¿O de los pabellones de la última exposición universal? La arquitectura ha dejado ser un bien y se ha convertido en una mercancía. Está generada para el consumo.”


En principio, la arquitectura no tendría nada que ver con la moda, aunque si está muy relacionada con el vestido. De hecho, la primera forma de arquitectura consiste en vestirse.

La primera y principal finalidad de la arquitectura ha sido la protección y el cobijo, y así lo entendieron incluso los hombres de las cavernas. Con el paso de los tiempos, esa cubrición básica se ha venido cualificando, adaptándose a las épocas, hasta el punto en que no sólo se espera de ella la protección, sino que también produzca placer estético.

Algunos arquitectos de finales del siglo XIX y principios del XX, (Gottfried Semper o Adolf Loos, por ejemplo) habían establecido analogías entre el vestido y la arquitectura. En ese entonces, el revestimiento de los edificios se convirtió en uno de los elementos más expresivos de la arquitectura.

Hasta finales del siglo XX, la cubrición estaba estrechamente relacionada con la oquedad que generaba. La materia y el espacio se iban entrelazando, modelándose mutuamente. Lo lleno y lo vacío constituían el ente, en el cual estaba involucrado el hombre.

Actualmente, el hombre ha dejado de ser el protagonista de este diálogo para convertirse en un mero observador. De estar inmerso en el espacio, ha sido desplazado fuera de él. Ha dejado de ser un habitante y ha pasado a ser un espectador. La arquitectura vive un período contemplativo en el que hemos perdido nuestra capacidad de participación. “Lo único que se comparte es el espectáculo, ese juego en el que nadie juega y todos miran”- escribe John Berger.

Para leer todo el articulo, ver todas las fotos y tener accesso a todos los links click here

Archigram and Jay McCarroll



Jay McCarroll - spring 2007
to see entire collection go here


I learned something with Jay McCarroll (winner of the first season of Project Ruanway). I read his interview in the Fashion Wire Daily site where he explained his spring 2007 colecction recently shown in the Olympus NY Fashion Week.

“What's the inspiration/theme for this collection?
Archigram, an architectural movement in the late 60's/early 70's in England, air balloons, the B-52’s. I used to go to the library in college and procrastinate on my 15-page papers and read this amazing little book about Archigram. There is a lot of air balloon iconography in the Archigram work, and the B-52’s musically inspire the vibe I am going for.”

So I learned about Archigram and dedicated a few minutes to read more about it.

Archigram
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Archigram was an avant-garde architectural group formed in the 1960s - based at the Architectural Association, London - that was futurist, anti-heroic and pro-consumerist, drawing inspiration from technology in order to create a new reality that was solely expressed through hypothetical projects. The main members of the group were Peter Cook, Warren Chalk, Ron Herron, Dennis Crompton, Michael Webb and David Greene. The pamphlet Archigram I brought out in 1961 proclaimed their ideas. Committed to a 'high tech', light weight, infrastructural approach that was focused towards survival technology, the group experimented with clip-on technology, throwaway environment, space capsules and mass-consumer imagery. Their works offered a seductive vision of a glamorous future machine age; however, social and environmental issues were left unaddressed.

The works of Archigram had a Futurist slant being influenced by Antonio Sant'Elia's works. Buckminster Fuller was also an important source of inspiration. The works of Archigram served as a source of inspiration for later works such as the High tech 'Pompidou centre' [1971] by Renzo Piano, Richard Rogers, Gianfranco Franchini and Future Systems.

Some famous projects of Archigram are Ron Herron's "Walking Cities" and Peter Cook's "Plug-in-City", both of 1964.

Ron Herron's "Walking Cities," 1964

Peter Cook's "Plug-in-City," 1964

For more really good and detailed info, go to their page in the Design Museum website here.


12 looks, 2 hexagrams, 4 trigrams

I will try to organize the brainstorming session I had for my graduation runway show yesterday. Thankfully I was very inspired (maybe it was thanks to my friend Paulita who helped me that day)… it’s all documented in pages of hand written notes…. I still love to hand write notes.

I’m going to start with the whole “Three” thing again: I didn’t mention in the Three post that there are 6 of us graduating this year, in the year 2006… and that we are supposed to make 12 looks for the graduation runway show.

And after so much thinking of the number three, it was obvious I was going to use the number three to organize my thoughts. And it definitely helped.

Here we go (all of this information is subject to change):

I visualized my show like this:

12 looks
2 hexagrams (2 x 6)
4 trigrams (4 x 3)

Hexagram 1: Multi textured. Lycra, denim and "knitted stretch cotton" (don’t know how to call it in English. In spanish I would say something like: tejido de punto de algodón alycrado)
Hexagram 2: Mono textured. Lycra only.

Trigrams 1: Prêt-a-porter
Trigrams 2: Beachwear
Trigrams 3: Dancewear
Trigrams 4: Haute Couture

one two three (Hexagram 1, Trigram 1) (Multi textured, Prêt-a-porter)
one two three (Hexagram 2, Trigram 2) (Mono textured, Beachwear)
one two three (Hexagram 1, Trigram 3) (Multi textured, Dancewear)
one two three (Hexagram 2, Trigram 4) (Mono textured, Haute Couture)
Total = 12 looks, 2 hexagrams, 4 trigrams

I’m thinking of naming my brand “aïa” and the collection “one two three”

There is more infomation but I will write it little by little so it's more clear.

miércoles, setiembre 20, 2006

Frou Frou - Breath In



I've been listening a lot of this lately.

martes, setiembre 19, 2006

Azzedine Alaïa

So, for some time now (and for some special reason) I kept seeing the name Azzedine Alaia here and there. He is an important designer unkown to many. Something caught my attention and I have been curious since. I first heard of him when I read something that said that Azzedine is the only one who's been able to make some of Madeleine Vionnet's designs (soon I will talk about her, she deserves it). Then I read something about him working with Lycra and the light turned on… I think I found my “true” reference, someone to look up to, be inspired by, etc.

Following is a short text about him…


Azzedine Alaïa

Lacroix is considered the designer that introduced one of the two orientations that dominated fashion during the 80’s – “dress for success”. Azzedine Alaïa (born in 1940 at Tunisia, Tunis) is the master of the second one: “dress to kill”. Evidently this simplification doesn’t do them justice and in relation to Alaïa some time had to elapse until his importance as a fashion designer was recognized. His dresses were too sexy to awaken somebody’s interest in their material and cut technique. All eyes were drawn towards the woman that was enveloped by the attire and that felt, at each step she took, what Alaia’s models offered her. – They hold you tight and show you off – wrote Joan Juliet Buch for Vogue’s US edition. The Lycra stretch material he developed worked as a whole-body corset, giving form to the entire ensemble and, at the same time, allowing freedom of movement. But his true secret lied in his cut line, profoundly researched and admired without limits by experts such as the German designer, Natalie Acatrini: “ This man is genius” she recognized, even when the great majority continued ignoring this tiny Tunisian. His spiral-like stitches configure and lengthen the legs, elevate the buttocks, restrain the waist, and give support to the breasts. (he also hit the spot for me). Alaïa, who originally wanted to be a sculptor, mastered this art by disarming and reconstructing old Madeleine Vionnet and Balenciaga models. He went to Paris when he was 17-years-old and worked some time for Laroche, although he learnt most things on his own. He has worked mostly for private clients, such as Greta Gargo, Arletty and the poet Louise de Vilmorin. In 1991 he presented to the public his first collection. But Alaia doesn’t follow general prêt-à-porter rules of presenting collections twice a year. He only does it after they’re ready. And his clients wait, because his models – which he continues to cut and sew personally according to haute couture rules – transform any woman into a goddess. Is there a better example than Tina Turner who wearing Alaia’s designs belatedly became a world sex symbol?

(In: Fashion – The Century of the Designer – 1900-1999. Charlotte Seeling – © 2000 – Könemann Publishers)

Naomi and Azzedine
picture found here



viernes, setiembre 15, 2006

Three

Something interesting is happening… The number three keeps repeating itself in my life.

It first started with my friend John who has a theory about the number three which is really interesting and I have never forgotten… I remember hearing it and thinking: Hum! That makes sense.” I do not remember when I first heard it, if it was in Miami or NY, but I think it was NY. (I’ll ask John to explain it in his words).

After John’s 3 theory, there was Cunningham (again!) with his triplets. Triplets are part of the Cunningham technique. It’s the repetition of a movement three times. “One two three - one two three.” Like with everything in the Cunningham technique, you could go in any direction with the triplets (forward, backward, side to side, diagonally, etc). The point is that that’s really important in the Cunningham technique and something that differentiates him from all of the other techniques I am familiar with (which I know it’s very limited so if anyone knows of another dance technique who uses the number three so importantly, let me know).

At that time I didn’t think much of the triplets. I liked them and found them fun to dance (and hard also), but I didn’t analyze it too much… But today I just realized something about the triplets… I finally made the connection which took me sort of long to figure out, but now I think I got it… Will get into this in a minute.

After John’s 3 theory and Cunningham’s triplets, there was the creation of my first men’s collection, which was inspired by my boyfriend, a merchant marine. I used the number three for deciding lots of things because I was at that time “celebrating” having met my boyfriend three years back. I know it sounds corny, but it’s true. If you look in my “Querido Marino” post (in Spanish) you will see that when I was asked to write a short text explaining one look of the collection, towards the end, I write: “The stripes in the sweater switch colors every three rows because I’ve known him for three years.” (I know, it’s corny!) And since that I love using the numbers 3 or 6 or 9 or 12, etc to decide things or make patterns.

After John’s 3 theory, Cunningham’s triplets, 3 years having met my boyfriend in the year 2006 (I met him in 2003 – just realized that), and falling in love with the numbers 3, 6, 9, 12, etc., I started to read a little more of how Cunningham uses by chance operations to create dance because I wish to apply the same concepts to the creation of garments (I still don’t have the methodology very clear, but I’ll get there)… So one of the first things you read about him is that both Cunningham and John Cage were both into zen and used, among other things, I Ching “operations.” So I went to wikipedia and read about it… even posted the definition of it’s title here in the blog. And it is also all about trigrams (3) and hexagrams (6)… It says:

“The text of the I Ching is a set of predictions represented by a set of 64 abstract line arrangements called hexagrams… The hexagram diagram is conceptually subdivided into two three-line arrangements called trigrams”

So I didn’t make the connection at first, but now I’m imagining that this is where Mr. Cunningham got the ideas for the triplets… maybe I’m wrong, but it makes sense.

After John’s 3 theory, Cunningham’s triplets, 3 years having met my boyfriend in the year 2006, falling in love with the numbers 3, 6, 9, 12, etc., and I Ching’s hexagrams and trigrams, I had an encounter with all the dices I took from the gala party I helped organizing for the Cunningham Dance Foundation (I was an intern in their Development department and got there just in time to help organize that event, one day I’ll talk a little more about this experience)… There were dices everywhere and we had tones left in the office… Maybe I exaggerated a bit, but I grabbed some without thinking much (seriously there were tones left over, no one cared about them, I did and should have taken more). Anyway, I LOVE my dices! They are so cute (red with white dots) and I use them for making decisions, deciding by chance and always keep them around… and today I got them all together and realized I had 6 dices. Do you understand? With 6 dices, I can perfectly play with I Ching. Three and three. 2 trigrams, 1 hexagram.



PS 1: I’ve known John and Paula since 1999. Paula and I were college roommates. Later on, both of them were my roommates in Queens, NY and (most of the time in a huge loft) in Jersey City, NJ. They are getting married this year in November.

PS 2: I was in Miami from the beginning of 1999 till the middle of 2003 and NY from the middle of 2003 till the end of 2004.

So 2003 was a year of transition for me and one that has changed my life forever.

In fact, 2003 is a VERY important year… That year I backpacked in Europe for two months after quitting my “nothing to do with me” job and ended up traveling good part of trip by myself (I started with a friend but she decided to come back in Barcelona). My friend Annie said I was never coming back (to Miami) and she was right. I got back from the trip going straight to visit my mom in Uruguay. The SAME DAY I met my boyfriend in a VERY random way; it was love at first sight… That was crazy… and it was at that time that I decided to go live in NY… In August I got back to the States after three months away and left Miami to go to NY. Moved in with John and Paula first temporarily then permanently. I got to NY and the next day I was already working with the Cunningham Dance Foundation… Everything worked perfectly (thank God!). The Cunningham Dance Company was having the opening night for Split Sides, a piece were the music was done independently from dance by two bands: Radiohead and Sigur Ros. If you know them, you know this is not some average thing. I saw the opening night, the only day the bands played live (I think) and that was VERY special. This year I also met very important people like Cathy and Abi… Met the Cunningham Dance technique, got back to dancing after almost 5 years of not taking formal dance classes, etc.

I'm missing NY and its freedom.

miércoles, setiembre 13, 2006

It's in the air.

Well, I have said in the past (in a post in Portuguese) that I smell in the air my end of year and graduation runway show. That sensation keeps on going and everyday I see something different that confirms that what I am smelling is the right way to go for me… It’s in the air.

An important thing that happened yesterday is that I saw the new Proenza Schouler (summer 08) collection. I felt connected. I saw Lycra looking fabric, loved the silhouette with the accent on the waist and some cute looking skirts that could perfectly be used in a dance performance because of its possibility of movement. The skirt doesn’t limit it. And the designers: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, whom I feel are smelling the some of the same thing I am, said: “It’s about elevating sporty.” they really hit the spot for me.

Proenza Schouler - Spring Summer 07
Photogralher: Marcio Madeira
www.style.com


Life is so round.

A few days back I had a thought: A good goal could be want to be part of the design team for sports apparel (specially such as dance and tennis) of a mega sports company.

The funny thing about that is that I AM working in one of the most import sports brand in the world, ASICS. Here in Uruguay, I am in charge of their fashion and apparel department, I love the ASICS clean and fresh design and certainly appreciate all the technology… A coincidence? I think not, it’s destiny, it’s life being perfectly round. I really love the ideas of intelligent fabrics and have come to the conclusion that that is the type of material I want to work with in the near future. Technological, lycras, spandex, sports apparel, etc… Unfortunately Uruguay is really going behind when it comes to technological fabrics, but I have seen good lycra and that will work for now. Everything keeps on repeating and by now I am sure it is not a coincidence. I believe everything in my life happens for a reason. (in yours too by the way)

I know I have studied Cunningham technique for a reason, I know I had to come to Uruguay for a reason, I finally realized I had to study fashion and found my career, I know dance will always be part of my life and I understand I will be designing dance costumes.

I really feel that my original idea for studying fashion, which was so I could design costumes for dance performances, is coming true. And now I also enjoy the idea of designing tennis and sports apparel (I remember I almost freaked out when I saw Stella McCartney’s collection for Adidas – spring summer 06 and I just freaked out again cause I saw her new fall winter 06 07 collection, it’s amazing - photos in following post). I think designing apparel is perfect for me.

But I also have my prêt a porter side… where I want to make dresses that mold into the space: the same dress you go to the beach with, you could go to a dressy party with high heels on, a night dancing with sneakers, a dance performance or a charming and sexy dinner with the boyfriend. I like ideas of democratic, intelligent, adaptable, different, playful, sexy, original and artistic fashion with strong personality.

LYCRA

Today, I want Lycra to be my primal material. I always loved lycra and since the beginning have experimented with it. My first “prêt a porter” collection’s main piece was a silver lycra balloon dress that had a large, by chance made print (texture) with all the colors of the collection… It was also inspired by bikinis. So if I think well about it, what is happening right now is that I am going with what I wanted to do originally, I’ve smelled this for a while and I will actually make it happen now.

By the way, I often find that original ideas are some of the most important, after you think about something too much and keep living life you start to change your original idea. I often find myself going back to original ideas.

So I am all about lycra, dresses. Color. Movement. Dance. Sports. Technology. Freedom. Comfort.

I also like tropicalismo and my Brazilian roots. The northeast of Brazil, beaches, drinking coconut water and caipirinhas, getting dirty in the sand, swimming in the ocean, bikinis, lycra (Brazil has some of the best lycras in the world).

I love dance, I love Cunningham dancing, I love the feel of lycra and how it molds in your body, how it holds everything tight, feels comfortable and gives you total freedom of movements.

Love colors and combination of colors that people usually do not put together.

Accessories made of plastic, vibrant colors, different colors.

Large intricate sleeves. Accent on the shoulder and waist.

And I feel like showing legs. (just like everybody else in Brazil and NY).

I also love the idea of going to a wedding on the beach with a beautifully colored dress, which is fun and sweet and perfect for the beach because it is made of lycra. So maybe, if the energy is in the air and the wedding is so beautiful I feel like taking a swim in the Ocean, it would be totally fine because the dress is made out of lycra. I will try this out (““haute couture”” made out of lycra) this November for John’s and Paula’s wedding. My friend Gonza will be making the dress.

So I am proposing making dresses for special occasions made out of lycra. Long gowns for weddings and important parties. Why not a wedding gown made out of lycra?

And I want to end this with saying that another interesting goal would be to maybe one day design costumes for the Merce Cunningham Dance Company. Not only a goal, that would be a dream.

sábado, setiembre 09, 2006

mirá Morris!

Colección Primavera Verano 2006 2007

En una dinámica muy interesante, un grupo de alumnos de la escuela integral de diseño de Pablo Gimenez (incluyendo yo) crearon en dos semanas, una colección de 8 looks. El proyecto fue hecho en equipo y muy bien sucedido. Hoy es el desfile. Yo fui parte del equipo de diseño, los otros equipos eran responsables por los moldes y transformación textil. Todos ayudaron en la confección. Los estampados fueron todos hechos a mano. Para algunas prendas, tuvimos la ayuda de talleres y de nuestra increíble profesora de costura, Ilda Fernandez (gracias!!). Hubiera sido muy difícil hacer esto sin la ayuda y supervisión de Gonza (sos un genio).

El resultado final es una nueva tendencia, nuestra tendencia. Un estilo marcado y marcante.

Desfile: en Central, 1:00 am, 9 de Septiembre de 2006.

wow!

Photographer and year unkown
found here

Beach Birds by Merce Cunningham (1991)


I just got the dvd with Beach Birds for Camera on it. Amazing. Beautiful "birdy" movements... It's Merce once more inspired by nature. Nature.

jueves, setiembre 07, 2006

Querido Marino

El pin es del abuelo Gabriel... Mi abuela también se enamoro de un marino...

Colección para hombres inspirada en mi novio, un marino mercante.

Tuve que escribir 600 characteres sobre mi look principal (el de saco blanco, prenda de punto rayada, camisa azul marino y jeans gastado) y esto fue lo que dije:

“Querido Marino” es una declaración de amor a mi novio, que es marino mercante y estuvo ausente durante todo el proceso de creación de la colección. El jeans representa sus vaqueros que duran años. El gastado fue hecho con elementos simbólicos (como mi celular que representa la tan esperada llamada) o con doblas naturales creadas por mi cuerpo en un tipo de juego donde la intención era imprimir parte de mí en la prenda de él. La camisa es la típica que él tiene guardada de la época de sus estudios en la escuela naval. La textura del saco blanco remite a como son hechos los barcos (varias placas de metal). Las rayas de la campera tejida cambian cada 3 carreras por que hace 3 años que lo conozco. Todo para decirle que lo extraño.

Ai, ai, no es fácil ser novia de marino, pero yo lo hago por que puedo y por que vale la pena... mi amor "es la cosa mas linda de este mundo." te amo.

Light-emitting shirts!



Future is coming!

domingo, setiembre 03, 2006

Luminex


Luminex is a new fabric (non reflective) that can emit its own light. It is created with threads of every type and nature that emits lights in different colors.

I would certainly like to play with this... Imagine a dance costume made out of this fabric? Fantastic! I'm sure Cirque du Solei is taking note of this... and I'm sure someone will get creative with this very soon at Burning Man... And raves may never be the same.

Vestido da Issa

Olha que coisa mais linda! Um vestido da Issa... Acho que estou sentindo cheiro a desfile de fim de ano (No final do ano estarei apresentando meu desfile de "formatura"). Eu sinto no ar o que que eu tenho que fazer e este vestido é uma referencia. Quero trabalhar com tecidos alycrados, quero trabalhar com a estamparia feita com a técnica de sublimação, quero investigar vestidos, roupa para a dança e ao mesmo tempo criar uma metodologia onde posso aplicar conceitos "by chance" na criação de roupa (inspirado por Merce Cunningham)

domingo, agosto 27, 2006

Madonna - Get Together

i-ching

Implications of the title

  • 易 (), when used as an adjective, means "easy" or "simple", while as a verb it implies "to change".
  • 經 (jīng) here means "classic (text)", which derived from its original meaning of "regularity" or "persistency", implying that the text describes the Ultimate Way which will not change throughout the flow of time.

The conception behind this title, thus, is profound. It has three implications:

  1. Simplicity - the root of the substance. The fundamental law underlying everything in the universe is utterly plain and simple, no matter how abstruse or complex some things may appear to be.
  2. Variability - the use of the substance. Everything in the universe is continually changing. By comprehending this one may realize the importance of flexibility in life and may thus cultivate the proper attitude for dealing with a multiplicity of diverse situations.
  3. Persistency - the essence of the substance. While everything in the universe seems to be changing, among the changing tides there is a persistent principle, a central rule, which does not vary with space and time.

(易一名而含三義:易簡一也;變易二也;不易三也。 commented on by Zheng Xuan (鄭玄 zhèng xúan) in his writings Critique of I Ching (易贊 yì zàn) and Commentary on I Ching (易論 yì lùn) of Eastern Han Dynasty).

Due to the profound ideas conveyed by the title itself, it is practically impossible to arrive at an unbiased translation which could preserve the original concepts intact. The translation of the title into English used to be Book of Changes, though a slightly more accurate name, Classic of Changes, appears more frequently in recent use.

found in http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/I-Ching

martes, agosto 22, 2006

Combinación de Colores

Esto puede facilmente inspirarme para una carta de colores. It's really wow!
found in Wikipédia

lunes, agosto 21, 2006

Cunningham Picture of the Day

Cunningham in Yellow
found in: http://www.kellysalerno.com/art21/

mi-zo

http://www.mi-zo.com/fashion/main.html

Maybe this is how we'll dress in the future?

Yo quiero!

by Marc Jacobs

Humm!

Haa! Descubrí de donde Nike sacó la idea...

domingo, agosto 20, 2006

Danielle Scutt

Danielle Scutt - Fall Winter 2006 2007
www.style.com

By Chance

Dancing Under the Red Light


Mark and Cathy

Performing in NYC

Mark, Monica, Abi and Cathy

Maddona- Deeper and Deeper



Madoona es la mejor! Esto es un homenaje a las fiestas que he ido del mundo de Milagrito Films. Madonna siempre está y siempre es un momento maravilloso.

sábado, agosto 19, 2006

Crazy by Gnarls Barkley



This is so well done! It deserves to be here...

viernes, agosto 18, 2006

Cunningham at youtube - Changing Steps

Cunningham Picture of the Day

Merce Cunningham in "Changeling" 1956
Photo by Richard Rutledge in www.artsalive.ca



I love Cunningham; you will find that out little by little... My life changed after my experience in the Cunningham world. I lived in NY for a year and a half (2003 - 2004) and worked at the Merce Cunningham Dance Company in the Development department while being a student at the studio... The Cunningham technique, in my opinion, is the most amazing dance technique in the world. The movement, the shapes, all the possibilities... It's amazing. Not too long ago I had a realization... this is what I wrote in an email to friend's of mine in NY:

"I realize a lot more now a days how much I felt in love with the technique, with the concepts, with the sensations, the energy... it's really incredible. Right now I sort of feel like Cunningham came into my life to stay, even if indirectly... I have been thinking about how can I apply his concepts to the creation of garments..."

So for my graduation runway show this November, I will try to apply Cunningham's creation concept to the creation of clothes... and I think this is the beginning of a very important life-long investigation.

My first colection "Olhando no Espelho"